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Coulibiac  - New Home Page

30/11/2018

7 Comments

 
Picture
New home page - an impressive Coulibiac.  This is a free-form pie of salmon, rice, mushrooms and dill, wrapped in a brioche pastry, made to feed eight to ten. Originally Russian (Koulibiaka), it was refined for the classic French repertoire (see Escoffier) when French culture had a craze for all things Russian, such as ballet, samovars and Fabergé. (A Koulibiaka is in essence a large pirogi and might contain cabbage, a humble ingredient rare, if ever, seen in la cuisine française classique.)

​My niece and I had a session recently to re-acquaint ourselves with its construction.  Making a Coulibiac is certainly a "project" but an easy one, prepared ahead, cooked or re-heated for serving. Any stress from preparing its various components is compensated for by its easy (and stress free) finale. It's a fully integrated course, protein, vegetables, carbs all in a neat package!  With a butter sauce or sour cream on the side, it's all you need. 

When I had my restaurant, I encouraged my staff to hunt out old copies of the wonderful Time-Life Foods of the World series - (second-hand book stores, junk shops, garage sales).  Anyone who dumped his or her copies in the eighties is sure regretting it now!  The Classic French Cooking volume gives three A4 pages of dense recipe and instructions for Coulibiac, photographs extra.  The salmon is poached in cream first, dill pancakes are prepared and used to wrap the layered filling, every layer is clearly defined,  a brioche mousseline encases the whole. STOP! Our version is the "Readers Digest" of recipes and loses nothing in looks and flavour.

The melding of ingredients in a Coulibiac is a definition of "synergy".
It's an old-fashioned recipe.  It's an entire meal. Craig Claiborne, restaurant 
critic, food writer and editor of the N.Y. Times said in 1976 "To my mind, it's the world's greatest dish".

It's a show stopper. Ours sits on an excessive bed of fresh flat leaf parsley - just because it was growing madly in the garden. Try it and let me know your results.

Coulibiac  (Will generously feed up to eight or more.)
Filling - make this first
Olive oil for cooking
250 gm mushrooms sliced
200 gm (1 cup) long grain rice
2 eggs, hard boiled
1 leek
1.5 kg salmon or ocean trout, skin off, fillet or pieces 
1 – 2 tbsp chopped fresh dill (or 2 tsp dried)
Seasoning
  • Sauté the mushrooms in a little oil until soft.  Season with salt. When cold, chop roughly by hand or on/off in the food processor.  Set aside.
  • Chop the hard boiled eggs roughly by hand or on/off in the food processor.  Set aside.
  • Cut off the majority of the green part of the leek, leaving perhaps 7 cm.  Slash the top of the leek vertically and wash under running water. Slice finely. In a saucepan, soften the leek in 2 tbsp oil.
  • Add the rice to the leeks and stirring occasionally, "fry" the rice until slightly opaque. Add 2 cups of water, a tsp of salt and bring to a gentle boil.
  • After 6 minutes, turn off the heat, cover the rice and let it sit so that the rice absorbs the water.  Check that the rice is cooked, allow to cool.
  • Gently mix together the rice, dill, mushrooms and chopped egg. Check seasoning. Set aside until ready to assemble. This mixture can safely be done the morning of eating, even the day before.

Brioche - make this the day of assembly
​200 milk
3 eggs

1 tbsp dry yeast
1 tsp salt
​1-2 tbsp 
sugar
550gm plain flour
80 gm butter, soft and cut into pieces

Extra egg for egg wash
 
Use the mixing bowl of a Kitchen Aid or large Magimix.
  • Warm milk to blood temperature & put into the bowl.
  • Add flour, eggs, sugar, yeast, salt.
  • Mix together and have the machine kneed for 3 minutes.
  •  With machine turned on, add butter bit by bit until well incorporated.
  • Place in a floured bowl and prove 30-40 minutes or until double. (You can leave it in the Kitchen Aid bowl.) Knock it down and place in the refrigerator if you are not ready to assemble the Coulibiac.
Assembly
  • Roll out the brioche dough to a large square about 3/4 cm thick.  You are about to assemble the Coulibiac which will involve handling a long, pliant, uncooked parcel of rice and salmon.  Imagine your procedure.  It's a good idea to first place the rolled dough onto its baking sheet.  Lining the baking sheet with baking paper will allow you to move the Coulibiac around later. 
  • Arrange a scant half of the rice down the length of the dough, making a strip about 36 cm by 12 cm.
  • Arrange the salmon along the length of the rice.  (You may not need all of of it.) Season with salt and pepper.
  • Spread more rice over the fish.  This layer of rice will eventually be on the bottom and should be slightly thicker than the first one.  You may not need to use all the rice.
  • Have ready a beaten egg to seal and glaze. Fold the pastry over the filling, leaving the ends open. Seal the top seam with egg, cutting away any excess.  You don't want the pastry to be too thick.
  • ​Carefully roll the Coulibiac over, putting the seam underneath.​

Picture
Close the ends neatly, tuck them under, cutting away any excess dough. 

Glaze the Coulibiac with the egg wash and prick it attractively all over with a fork.  

Now's the time to get creative, if you wish,  with left over dough, decorating the top with leaves, flowers or fish.
​

​

Picture

​Place the Coulibiac in the refrigerator for 1/2 an hour or for several hours until you're ready to bake it. Allow about 40 minutes, 180˚C (fan) or until the pastry is nicely golden.
​
​Let it sit for 10 minutes before cutting and serving, having put it on an attractive oval platter. 


Prepare a melted butter sauce, a beurre blanc or a bowl of sour cream to be passed around.

Cut the Coulibiac into slices about 2 cm thick and place in the centre of each plate. This can be done at the table. It's very rich.  Second helpings may be possible.  It needs nothing else, although green beans or asparagus would suit.

Let me know how you went.  Do you need a beurre blanc recipe?  Comment below.
7 Comments
roger vincent
4/12/2018 05:15:46 pm

Delicious and quite easy really as I made one myself.

Reply
Ken Burgin
4/12/2018 06:08:28 pm

Lovely and inspirational! Nice to have the blog back in my inbox...

Reply
catherine link
4/12/2018 07:47:30 pm

Thanks Ken, and the ideas are thick and fast for December - some advice, some strong directions, some gentle telling off - the usual.

Reply
Judy Griffits
5/12/2018 06:36:09 am

Well timed for me- I have been browsing for Christmas recipes for the guest influx.
Re Coulobiac- do you recommend the steam holes?
On this tack- cleaning out my "utensils" drawer recently, wondered whether to keep my historic pie funnel; realized I hadn't used it for yonks... But as it came from my Gran, it's still there, looking ancient...

Reply
Cath link
5/12/2018 10:45:55 am

Thanks Judy. Give it a go. Easy steps, one by one. Take it easy. Love to know the result. You'll need a sauce so I'm working on a descriptive recipe for a Beurre Blanc. I'll give it to a kitchen innocent (AKA as Roger) and if he gets it, everyone will.

In this recipe, the steam holes are more for decoration.

Some pie funnels were in the shape of a cuckoo and I had to disappoint a bric a brac shop that was selling one as an old English whistle! These funnels actually did more for holding up the pastry on top of a pie that for steam.

Reply
Fiona Watson
5/12/2018 09:37:03 am

Thank you Cath, wonderfully informative from French / Russian recipes to hospital food .
Love the diversity.
My grandmother was a great cook and I remember a version of the Coulibiac ( of course different pastry) that she would produce for a family lunch.
Reading your blog for the first time, clever ,witty and descriptive writing

Reply
Cath link
5/12/2018 10:48:25 am

Thank you, Fiona. Didn't we have a great time sitting around a table together? The power of the table and hospitality.

Reply



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